Welding Tips and Tricks

What do you guys find best when doing low frequency pulse on stainless? Particularly if your bkg is quite low so a large arc differential. Lean toward the low or high shade side ? Thanks.

I run 11 but I have older eyes. I also keep the sensitivity setting up so the switching from low to high amps doesn’t cause my helmet to flash me.

GMP wrote: ↑Thu Mar 13, 2025 8:38 pm What do you guys find best when doing low frequency pulse on stainless? Particularly if your bkg is quite low so a large arc differential. Lean toward the low or high shade side ? Thanks.

I usually lean toward the lower shade side for better puddle visibility, especially with a big arc differential. Just gotta balance it so your eyes don’t get fried! What settings are you running?

Thanks guys and yeah I tend to go as low as I feel is safe, but it’s always a big compromise in puddle visibility. I have a 3350ADV, but the auto mode only covers a small range. So far the projects I have done were at higher frequency pulse settings but want to gain skill with the low frequency lay wire technique. I’ll set the machine at say 120 A peak but good enough with pedal now it’s not that critical, background 5 to 25%, duty about 25 to 35%, and frequency in the 1 to 2 range. Experimenting at this point on some stainless parts I have available at work, tubing, fittings, bungs, etc. Tubing generally 1/16” wall. Prime weld 225X. I see the bike frame builders like a similar setup and do beautiful work, but it’s so hard to see everything.

For your setup, I like 50% peak, 25% background, 1.2 pps. I’ll set my amps around 90 and stay full contact so I need only focus on torch and puddle control.