Okay.
The other day, I was welding some 5mm aluminum (if I remember correctly). Nothing special, but my electrode kept splitting on me. I ran my welder between 60 and 120 Hz, and I dialed down my DC pre-heat as much as possible, but it didn't help much.
I exclusively buy 2% lathanated electrodes (the easy solution), and this one was a 2,4mm electrode run at 150-180 amps, with pure argon. Am I expecting too much from my electrode, and have been lucky through the years? Cause I don't think I was abusing the tungsten. Granted, I was running on Ac, but still, I was only welding 30mm beads at the time (restricted access).
My boss makes me buy consumables at our "local" welding supplier, but sometimes, I have the feeling that he deals with cheapo parts. Sometimes even the gas cups feels weird and "less nice" than what I keep at home.
So, is he giving me cheap electrodes, or am I trying to put the blame on the hardware, when I'm just pushing the limit?
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450dualsport
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I have been having quite a bit of trouble with this lately as well. It has been happening with 3/32 and 1/8 2% lanthanated electrodes. Both are different brands too. I have experienced this on AC as well in the same amperage range but between 100 and 150hz.
I would be very interested to hear what the cause is.
I would be very interested to hear what the cause is.
Same here. At 150+ splitting on the 3/32, but as long as I'm under 150 amps I can weld all day. Got some 1/8 in. but haven't used them yet.
I will say that I'm using a Syncro 250 and weld Alum. mostly. Settings on the penetration side,9, post flow @10 seconds.
Don't get to weld much steel, but turn to "Balanced" when I do. The amps are never as high as when I weld Alum.
I will say that I'm using a Syncro 250 and weld Alum. mostly. Settings on the penetration side,9, post flow @10 seconds.
Don't get to weld much steel, but turn to "Balanced" when I do. The amps are never as high as when I weld Alum.
dave powelson
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^ what he said. I don't know if it's a fluke, but I've had more splits with mistreatment of 2% lanthanated tungsten than other varieties. I have my best luck with grinding, or breaking off a globbed end of a tungsten using the sharp edge of a table and a hammer (as long as the tungsten is properly supported).dave powelson wrote:Breaking off the tungsten end with pliers/dykes, etc.; prior to point grinding, is a great way to induce
tight fracturing down the length.
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I have never broken the end off a messed up tungsten. I have always cut it off with the edge of a grinding wheel. I don't think that is the cause in my case.
The splits that I have been seeing are more like the end of the tungsten is frayed. The splits don't go up very far - maybe about a millimeter or two.
The splits that I have been seeing are more like the end of the tungsten is frayed. The splits don't go up very far - maybe about a millimeter or two.
I didn't consider that! I might have given the tungsten a knock on the edge of the table, cause I do that, when I'm in a hurry.dave powelson wrote:Breaking off the tungsten end with pliers/dykes, etc.; prior to point grinding, is a great way to induce
tight fracturing down the length.
I don't cut my electrodes in half. I keep a stock of older, shorter electrodes, that have been grinded shorter over time.Markus wrote:How do you cut tungsten before grinding? I mean when you take a new tungsten and cut it in half for example. Some grades tends to leave micro cracks when cutted wrong.
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Nope. Not since I began this practice. I'll have to look to see what brand I'm using.450dualsport wrote:That's exactly what I do. Do you have any splitting issues?Otto Nobedder wrote:When I cut a tungsten in half, I spin it on the edge of a grinding wheel, as though I'm sharpening each end of two tungstens, until they separate. Then I "detail" each half. One end only.
Steve S
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Some years ago I asked the CKWW rep at the Essen show if their tungstens were US made or Chinese. He said CK used 3 Chinese manufacturers and CK regularly QC'd the products; I guess Boeing would not be impressed at all with sub-standard electrodes.
It could be that a brand is sourcing from several vendors................or several brands using the same vendor; how cheap can we go.
Some of the worst for splitting I found were Plansee Gold 1/16" lanthanated, cut the same way as Steve described and also with a death wheel, both spinning and stationary electrode.
Total garbage. Never had these problems with 2% thoriated and brown zirconium !
It could be that a brand is sourcing from several vendors................or several brands using the same vendor; how cheap can we go.
Some of the worst for splitting I found were Plansee Gold 1/16" lanthanated, cut the same way as Steve described and also with a death wheel, both spinning and stationary electrode.
Total garbage. Never had these problems with 2% thoriated and brown zirconium !
I ran an 1/8" all day on AC today with no splitting; switched to 3/32 at the end of the day, no splits. Running @250 amps floored on the 1/8th and 175 floored on the 3/32. The difference from my earlier experience is the grind. When I first started using 2% Lanth, I was grinding to a pencil point in an attempt to keep the puddle smaller- splits above 150 amps. Today I ground as if pure tungsten was in use- no splitting. This is in no way the answer, but time will tell.
Electrodes are from Weld City
Electrodes are from Weld City
dave powelson wrote:Breaking off the tungsten end with pliers/dykes, etc.; prior to point grinding, is a great way to induce
tight fracturing down the length. Grinding off the used end with cutoff wheel, etc. doesn't do that.
Yes ! I split the tungsten numerous times by breaking it .I use a cut off now .No more spitting.
Louie ("aka"Long Island Goomba)
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