weld looks straight, looks a little hot to me... how thick is that material?
when i weld stainless i will literally do 5 beads and stop postflow and start again after a 30 seconds for cooling. and you have seen my stainless welds
Hey grewru,
Where did you find a hood big enough to fit over that inflated head of yours? Just curious, because your are an average welder at best.
Jim
Pipefitter/Weldor out of Local 396
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gurew wrote:weld looks straight, looks a little hot to me... how thick is that material?
when i weld stainless i will literally do 5 beads and stop postflow and start again after a 30 seconds for cooling. and you have seen my stainless welds
it's not hot at all, the wall is very thin, 1 pass , freehand.
if you stop after 5 beads will take too long to weld one pipe and increase the chance for craters, let's just say it would be luck to pass an xray, some ppl (walkers) make only one stop, but they work on the bench and i get those hanging from a scafold jobs.
i know in the automotive industry, welds with that color would create cracks later on a turbo manifold out of sch40 308 SS pipe, entire wastegate runners would break off etc... i havent had the chance to xray any of my welds but ive yet to have a manifold come back i would think that 1600-1800 degrees under stress of a turbo and pressures from the exhaust pulses would be in the "extreme" category
is dat a known (scientific) fact or something somebody told you? i belive the thikness of the bead has a bigger influence in failure of high heat sistems then a hot(ish) weld, and i've never seen a fully penetrated weld that looks golden on the outside, not on 1,5-2mm ss and not without backpurge