[entity-unknown]

I'm about ready to purchase a Grizzly G0757Z mill. This thing is huge and I'm about to drop a lot of cash but I'm not finding many reviews of Grizzly's larger mills. It also has the full 3 Axis DRO setup from Dro Pros already attached. It's the ES-10 model from what I can tell which looks really full featured. Still any thoughts/concerns/moments of glory on any of this?

I also have about a 20 degree inclined 20 ft driveway and this thing weighs 2050 lbs. Last time the lift gate guy was cool and brought my lathe into my garage but that was 80 lbs. I have a 2 ton shop crane that looks like the mill foot print will fit in at the 1.5 and 2 ton lift points. It's the HF 2 ton engine crane. I'm renting a pallet jack in case the lift gate guy won't run it up the drive way but is it even possible to get this mill into my garage? I've read plenty of stories saying around 1000lbs np but not finding much for a full ton. Also, is it a bad idea to lay out a floor of 2x4s to put this thing on, or should I just set it on the concrete? Finaly ?, with 1Ton, do I really need to bolt it to the floor and if so will said 2x4 be adequate or pointless?

Either way any thoughts and advice would be appreciated as always

[682bear]

I'd say even with a pallet jack you may have issues moving something that heavy uphill... and if it gets away from you, its gonna go all the way to the botto whether you like it or not.

As far as the 2x4s, thats a no-go... 2x4s will never support it and keep it sitting level. Actually, placing it directly on concrete is not recommended, either. There should be at least 4 'pads' cast into the bottom of the mill, these pads should sit on 4 pieces of steel plate on the concrete. This is to prevent machine vibration from 'etching' into the concrete floor.

[Artie F. Emm]

Does Grizzly provide installation instructions, maybe in the owner's manual? Seems like they should, if there are details like "concrete pad on steel plate footer" that not everyone may know about.

[electrode]

When I bought my milling machine I rented a fork truck to get it off the trailer and into my workshop. And I was very glad I did. My shop is a ways from the street and I always wait for the delivery from the carrier, with my trailer backed up facing the back of the tractor trailer so we can offload it onto the trailer. Then I drive it down to the shop and back it in the driveway. I have used engine cranes in the past on lighter tools and that can be dangerous. Anyhow, the fork truck rental isn't that much considering how smooth the unload and moving of the mill went. I have a concrete floor and would not even consider a plywood floor. As far as bolting it down, I did not do that as I have a fairly level floor and just had to shim one corner.

[entity-unknown]

Thanks guys! Not necessarily the confidence inspiring posts I hoped for but at least you're honest

I was going to buy 2" angle iron and create a base plate for it to sit on so maybe I should just do that and per the recommendation no wood

I'm not a licensed fork lift operator so I can't rent one of those can I? I'm not really finding many places around that rent em as is... I've asked a friend who does heavy equipment out here so we'll see what he says about my options since he probably knows.


As for the installation, this is where it gets into mounting...
Lag shield anchors with lag screws (see below)
are a popular way to anchor machinery to a concrete
floor, because the anchors sit flush with the
floor surface, making it easy to unbolt and move
the machine later, if needed. However, anytime
local codes apply, you MUST follow the anchoring
methodology specified by the code

[electrode]

Thanks guys! Not necessarily the confidence inspiring posts I hoped for but at least you're honest

I was going to buy 2" angle iron and create a base plate for it to sit on so maybe I should just do that and per the recommendation no wood

I'm not a licensed fork lift operator so I can't rent one of those can I? I'm not really finding many places around that rent em as is... I've asked a friend who does heavy equipment out here so we'll see what he says about my options since he probably knows.


As for the installation, this is where it gets into mounting...
Lag shield anchors with lag screws (see below)
are a popular way to anchor machinery to a concrete
floor, because the anchors sit flush with the
floor surface, making it easy to unbolt and move
the machine later, if needed. However, anytime
local codes apply, you MUST follow the anchoring
methodology specified by the code

We have "Ready Rent" and other equipment rental places here in Florida. You do not have to have a license to operate a fork truck. At least here. I bought some anchors for my other tools (tire changer) and bought some nice anchors from a place called concretefasteners.com and they worked great in concrete. They are surface (or slightly under the surface) and use bolts (not lag bolts) and were fairly inexpensive but you had to buy a box of 25 (I think). Is this machine going into your home or at a business? (just reread the post and assume its going into your garage) Put the mill on the concrete floor. I can check on the anchors when I run down to the shop and see what size they are.

[entity-unknown]

Thank you electrode I'm starting to think I really need a picture from Grizzly of the bottom side of the stand so I don't screw this up...

Yes this is going into a home garage although if you only walked into my garage you might assume it's a shop by it's design. It's a 6 car L-shaped garage with 10ft ceilings and 9ft garage door openings so a small forklift and the machine will at least fit.

I did buy the load equalizer for the engine hoist and I will not be moving the mill with the hoist, it's only for taking it off the pallet. I was gonna rent the pallet jack for moving the mill with a friend and push but yeah now I'm startin to wonder if that'll work.

[electrode]

Thank you electrode I'm starting to think I really need a picture from Grizzly of the bottom side of the stand so I don't screw this up...

Yes this is going into a home garage although if you only walked into my garage you might assume it's a shop by it's design. It's a 6 car L-shaped garage with 10ft ceilings and 9ft garage door openings so a small forklift and the machine will at least fit.

I did buy the load equalizer for the engine hoist and I will not be moving the mill with the hoist, it's only for taking it off the pallet. I was gonna rent the pallet jack for moving the mill with a friend and push but yeah now I'm startin to wonder if that'll work.

I guess you could try the pallet jack to get it into place before getting a fork truck, but I would have the fork truck rental etc sorted out before hand so you have a plan. I had to move my mill from the driveway into the shop and did not have a pallet jack. If the floor is smooth it may work. But the engine hoist has to have the arm extended to get the height and then once to try to lift it and it swings over the engine hoist you run into weird problems. Anyhow, here is a pic of the bottom of my mill so you can see how the normal base looks. I have a 9x49 Mill. It hasn't moved in years and they don't fall over by themselves.

Dscf2841r.jpg (50.65 KiB) Viewed 3938 times

And here are the type anchors I have used elsewhere but these are only for a 3/8 bolt so not big enough for a mill if you decide to mount it. Concrete fasteners sells these is all sizes:

Dscf2843r.jpg (74.87 KiB) Viewed 3938 times

https://www.concretefasteners.com/confa ... or-drop-in

and

https://www.concretefasteners.com/confa ... tting-tool

and the guide:
https://www.concretefasteners.com/productfinder

[motox]

i have move plenty of very heavy equipment using 2" pipe as
rollers but never up an incline but with a come-along it
would be possible, just very slow and requires some
extra hands.
craig

[entity-unknown]

That sounds like that was fun! Looks like you gave it the proper spacing all around too Thank you for the links too! I figure I'll need to get Grizzly to tell me the bolt sizes but I think I might just be best dealing with it when I get it here. Will I be too lazy to drill the holes after I place it though, now that's the real question...

I found google sucks for looking up moving experiences but I searched some forums and changed my youtube search and am startin to find stuff. A lot of people have gotten away with pipe rollers so the pallet jack is sounding more appealing.

You have a longer X-axis and it looks like you have a bigger floor print. The floor print is listed as 30.5" x 20.5" but Grizzly is telling me 35.5" x 20.5". Still at the 2Ton slot it looks like I'll have 2" to spare from the legs if I use the equalizer so I should be able to put it out to 1.5Ton and have a few more inches to spare.

So my driveway is 20ft, with about a 3ft sidewalk like lip. The sidewalk portion is a 6 degree incline and the drive way is about 4.20. Perhaps someone was making a joke when building the incline angle

I'm really starting to think just a pallet jack and my friend will work or is keeping that forklift rental a good idea no matter what?

[dunkster]

I also have about a 20 degree inclined 20 ft driveway and...

20 degrees? I'd definitely have a lift lined up, unless you have a small army on hand.

The sidewalk portion is a 6 degree incline and the drive way is about 4.20.

Now 4.2 degrees, that's only about a 7 inch rise in 8 feet. Totally do-able with a pallet jack and a buddy.


As far as the base goes like others have said, stay away from wood. And I'd also wait until delivery before making a base, unless o/c the idea of fabbing up another doesn't scare you. I'll be making something similar to these after mine (knock on wood ) arrives:

IMG_3326 base.jpg (111.22 KiB) Viewed 3958 times

Millmobilebase.jpg (13.54 KiB) Viewed 3958 times

[entity-unknown]

it looked like 20 degrees from the street but I used an igage angle measure and based the zero degree from the driveway and checked it about every 3 feet so yeah it looks like 4.2 all the way up. That does give me a bit more confidence to run this up with my friend since a rigger seemed a bit more than necessary for 20 ft.....

So the two machines you two posted look about the same height from the floor up to the bed. Being 6'1" I'm really gonna want a stand right?

That looks like a good idea on the stand with the casters. Perhaps we'll see if my welding can hold 1 ton

I was just gonna buy a mini mill but realized quick it wouldn't hold up and I'd be severely limited. Plus the girl came in and saw what I was looking at and said I deserve to get whatever I want. I'm about to make over 70k profit on selling my house and like any man should, I'm buying a really expensive tool she just helped justify spending more

[dunkster]

I'm 6'3" and from what I remember a full size BP sitting on the floor (doing mostly low profile, in the vise work) was fine for me, however that might be a different story today now that I'm older and blinder. The 1st shot is of a 2/3 - 3/4 size machine similar to what I'll be getting and I anticipate the need to lift it in the neighborhood of 5 to 8 inches. Going to give it a couple runs after it gets here while still on the pallet before committing to fabbing a base for it. It's really all relative to whatever kind of work you'll mostly be doing. I tend to base height requirements on where my eyes will be focusing, you know where you'd want a higher machine for doing say plate work that's toe clamped directly to the table vs. working on something like an engine block or the like.

Sounds like a real keeper you've got there!

Any holding up a ton is nothing, so long as the design supports it.

[entity-unknown]

I've seen plenty of video of the BP and it does look like that was designed to stand at all day long like a good classic 1940s worker should be doin. These new ones all look like they'd really benefit from stands :\

I do plan on only really doing low, flat work but I said I'd only really be doing Al with TIG and I've got my fair share of steel and SS now with a Ti fix ready to go. I'm getting this for the potential and to remove as many limitations without taking up a 10'x10' space, weighing over 1 ton, and not costing 15 grand just for the machine. So the imagination and laziness should be my only limitations

Looking at casters, it looks like a 900 lbs load rating is about the best minimum and that looks to be about 7" mount height with 6" wheels. Looks like I have my base height to consider for a stand now. I know those crappy metal tab brakes are horrible so after a bunch of searching I found these look like the best options for swivel casters and brakes which it shouldn't be hard to find the ridgid or non-braking matching set for these. Figured I'd post in case it helps you, anyone else, or if my browser history dies

https://www.amazon.com/RWM-Casters-Uret ... 900&sr=8-3
https://www.amazon.com/RWM-Casters-Inst ... 900&sr=8-9
https://www.amazon.com/RWM-Casters-Cast ... JA2GPWKVRA

[electrode]

I looked at my manual for my 2300 lb mill and for securing to the concrete they recommend using a 5/16" minimum sized anchor. So a 3/8" anchor would more than likely work but I would go with 1/2" if I were to anchor mine. But it hasn't moved in years and I don't move it when cleaning the shop. I also have a 2400 Sq ft shop so your mileage may vary.

[entity-unknown]

Thanks for that point about the anchor size Yeah I def don't have a shop that large; one day maybe but I'm pleased with what I have

Have you been doing fine precision work or just using the mill for what a mill is good for? I'm guessing if you had a concern or noticed problems you would have bolted it down by now...

[electrode]

Thanks for that point about the anchor size Yeah I def don't have a shop that large; one day maybe but I'm pleased with what I have

Have you been doing fine precision work or just using the mill for what a mill is good for? I'm guessing if you had a concern or noticed problems you would have bolted it down by now...

Precision work is not a problem with the mill even not bolted down. It's level and weighs over a ton so it doesn't matter. Proper use of the mill is what matters. Leave the quill up and use the quill lock, lock the table and knee or whatever axis is not going to be traveling. Use good tooling and set the speeds and feeds properly etc. Make sure you tram the head so it is square with the table and same goes for the vise on the table. Learn about direction of travel and what difference it makes between conventional and climb milling. Lots to learn but lots of fun too. Tooling will cost as much as the mill....eventually.

[jroark]

I don't know if you're looking for a review on the quality of their stuff but for what it's worth my boss has the funds to buy whatever he wants for his machine shop and he bought a Grizzly mill and lathe. They're very nice and I'm assuming he likes them pretty good. I'd feel good about getting their stuff. I've been looking at one of their smaller bandsaws myself.

[Jim FLinchbaugh]

There is NO good reason to anchor a machine tool of this order to the floor,
unless you live in an earthquake zone.
Check on renting a fork- lift even a small one will lift 2000 pounds easy.
You may also be able to rent what are called "machine skates" basically 4 wheeled
caster like things that you can sit under each corner and use a pinch bar to move the machine.
Last mill I moved we used old engine push rods as rollers and you could move the thing VERY easy.
IF you want feet under it something like this is good

They can be expensive, but most folks I know use hockey pucks and make their own

[Jim FLinchbaugh]

that looks to be very nice machine, and I am jealous, as a knee mill is the thing most lacking in my shop.
You will find 1000's of uses for it and I really like that it has the horizontal arbor drive as well.
Grizzly tools seem decent for the most part. I would expect you will spend several days cleaning, lubing, adjusting
and fine tuning as you should with any new machine.
Congrats!

[entity-unknown]

Thanks for the general thoughts on the anchoring I purchased these levelers which I'll build a stand and put these into it along with the casters to move it as needed and hopefully give it a few extra inches so my back doesn't turn into a ?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EI ... UTF8&psc=1

I have the G8688 mini lathe and have been very pleased with it. The last thing I really need to complete my ensemble is a mill too I got some other tools but I intend to make them with the lathe and mill such as my tube roller.
I looked over the manual and it does look like I'll be spending a day or two cleaning this thing up and just getting it ready to do the spindle break ins.

I've heard mostly good things about Grizzly from what I've read but I never heard about them until I looked into a lathe. Looks like they have some relation to Shop Fox and I like the drill press I was given but even if no relation I will say the lathe is solid for what it is and turning 2" round steel isn't an issue. It looks like they picked solid components too but we'll see soon enough

The push rods sounded simple enough until I looked at the base of the machine. It has two 2x4 slots cut out on either side so rolling would not be an option. I don't even think the machine skates would work out plus this just looks like it'd be a disaster with the profile and electro gizmos. Perhaps they wanted to ensure there's no backwoods moving for this machine Definitely a hoist/lift.

As for the tooling vs the mill price.... yeah it looks like to get pretty much everything I'd generally want/need with a gimmic tool or two will be about half the price of the mill itself. But will it be worth it? YES! Especially after all the plumbing, drywall, irrigation, electrical, roofing, and cleaning I endured to make my old house a perfect repair free home for it's new owner

[weldin mike 27]

Pony up some dough and hire one of these with appropriate crew to get it in properly. Theres no point in damaging your equipment and your life. Search under machinery relocation.

http://www.terex.com/cranes/en/aboutus/ ... ds/Franna/

[entity-unknown]

Yeah I've decided to go with a rigging crew to move it in. I'll lift it myself since I should be able to do that with my equipment, it's just the moving and driveway that are sketchy.

[Jim FLinchbaugh]

I should have mentioned, the mil was set on a piece of 3/4 plywood with pushrods underneath,
greased lightning

[weldin mike 27]

cool