Yeah no worries, none taken.cj737 wrote:Cheers, I was not intimating that you had said fireproof at all. And I am not discounting that due care can achieve the proper result with drywall. All things need to be done sensibly, that's a given.Ballistic308 wrote:Guys- I stayed “fire protection” not fire proof; there is a difference. Depending on how the weld/ fabrication is executed would determine how much heat is induced, such as short stitch welds across the top rather than a full bead or tabs across the top portion.
As stated riveting is an option, not as aesthetically please, but an option.
The Roxul is a great choice too. Was just pointing out that in order to keep the drywall "stable" it would need to be reasonably tight to the edges to prevent it from sloshing around with movement which could introduce a fire hazard when welding.
No offense intended to your idea-
General welding questions that dont fit in TIG, MIG, Stick, or Certification etc.
Ballistic308
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Judgmentalist
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Judgmentalist
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I took it that softened referred to smoothing the edge of the sheet metal. It could also mean the square tubing came with rounded corners vs. square ones.
To ease the edges of the sheet metal, I would use a file, or maybe a Scotchbrite disk. I would do it before welding the sheet to the frame.
To ease the edges of the sheet metal, I would use a file, or maybe a Scotchbrite disk. I would do it before welding the sheet to the frame.
No sense dying with unused welding rod, so light 'em up!
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Try a test piece and post back with the result! Instead of wax I would use a clear coat (rattle can) spray, that would be permanent compare to waxJudgmentalist wrote:I also saw a video on YouTube that said one way to preserve the steel is to seal it with wax, but first you should heat it with a blowtorch to get water out of it.
Then I read somewhere else that said this was BS.
Verdict?
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Richard
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